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Hats, Caps & Visors
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Why We Wear Hats
Humans have covered their heads since evolution. Initially headwear offered
protection from the elements, from injury or from falling rocks, weapons or
masonry. Later head coverings became symbols of status of authority or of uniform
and as time progressed they became an art form as well as an everyday piece
of apparel.
In fashion terms hats are a very noticeable accessory because the onlooker’s
attention is always first drawn to the face. A hat is the most noticeable fashion
item anyone can wear. The old saying goes 'if you want to get ahead and get
noticed, then get a hat'. Indeed the word ahead means just that one head further
forward.
About 85% of body heat is lost through the head, so in inclement conditions
it is important to cover the head. Babies in particular lose heat rapidly through
the head so ensuring a baby or toddler has a warm covered head in winter is
important.
Origin of Milliners
Millinery has existed in Britain since 1700. In English courts the term milliner
was used and this was derived from the term for travelling haberdashers from
Milan in Italy. These travelling sales people sold all the items necessary to
dress and were called millaners.
In France hats were made by hatmakers called chapeliers. Today the term modiste
is used in France. Today technically a hatmaker makes hats for men whilst a
milliner makes hats for women.
Plumassiers
Running parallel to these hat making arts were feather workshops or more correctly
workshops called plumassiers where feathers were dyed and made into arrangements
from boas to aigrettes to tufts and sprays for both the worlds of fashion and
interiors. Plumes have always been a status symbol and sign of economic stability.
Fortunes were paid by rich individuals for exotic feathered hats. Gorgeous feathered
hats could command as much as £100 in the early Edwardian era. The Edwardians
were masters in the art of excess and the flamboyant hats of the era are a clear
example of this. At one point whole stuffed birds were used to decorate hats,
but as the new more enlightened century emerged, protests were voiced. In America
the Audubon society expressed concern and in England the RSPB (Royal Society
for the Protection of Birds) campaigned for ecological understanding.
Eventually plumage pleas were heard and Queen Alexandra forbad the wearing of
rare osprey feathers at court so that the osprey bird was not plundered for
feathers. For a few years magazines quietly ignored making reference to feathers
on hats as women continued to wear them. But soon the use of other rare bird
feathers was banned and thereafter only farmed feathers could be used and only
from specific birds.
The Demise of Hat Wearing Etiquette and formality have played their part in
hat wearing. At the turn of the 20th century in 1900, both men and women changed
their hats dependant on their activity, but for many ladies of some social standing
it would be several times a day.
Etiquette articles suggest that it would be A disgraceful act to venture out
of the house without a hat or even gloves. One record tells of a young lady
venturing out to post a letter without her hat and gloves and being severely
reprimanded for not being appropriately dressed. The post box was situated a
few yards from her front garden gate.
In the Edwardian age it did not matter if you were poor or rich, old or a child,
whatever the status a person wore a hat, only beggars went bareheaded. Even
militant suffragettes did not campaign without a hat. The hat would be fairly
functional in style and form, but a hat was still worn.
Hat Decline After Wars
Once the Great War of 1914-18 began, fashion was influenced by the new wartime
employment activities women had to engage in and the need for more practical
utilitarian dress could not help but filter into what there was of mainstream
fashion. Uniforms were everywhere as women did jobs once
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